MA Studies > Fashion communication > Fashion communication alumnus > Hendrikje Horsten

Hendrikje Horsten

Alumnus




SLOW FASHION

The essence of the work of art has changed a lot in the age of its technological reproducibility. The most important change is that the work of art lost its 'aura'. Which means the uniqueness, authenticity and the 'here and now' of the object.
This is a short summary of Walter Benjamin's: The work of art in the age of mechanical reproduction from 1936.

Fashion, the art of the moment?

In this time of globalization and mass consumption, where quantity mostly stands above quality, I realize that I miss something in my closet. I don't have any clothes of value. Value as for handicrafts, attention, details and durability.
In former times it was normal to keep some of your clothes your whole life. They were changed in another item or stayed in the family. I like that; I like the attention that is paid to some clothes.
For my practical project, I collected photos of three generations in equal occasions. My grandmother, my mother and I. What happened in this century with traditional clothes, what's still the same, what's different, what disappeared? It will form the silhouette of my collection. I'm also doing research in old handicrafts which you don't see that often anymore. It's sad that they disappear, and I want them to be known again. Like Zaans Stikwerk for example.
Globalization makes is possible for everybody to look the same. Everything is reproducible and it must not take too much time. Because of that, a lot of fashion became disposable. What fast- food means for food means fast- fashion for fashion. Fast fashion means no attention for durability, time, attention as for material and handicrafts. The speed of change is getting out of control.
The fashion of tomorrow turns today fashion into yesterday's fashion
Of course fashion thrives on change, it keeps the industry alive and the consumers interested. But the speed at which fashion evolves now feels out of control. Trends move more quickly then ever before. I think people are getting turned of by it, just like me.
In these last four months I did research about the term Slow Fashion. It's a reaction on fast fashion. More and more designers don't want to make trends, but want to be authentic en unique. They are trying to slow things down.
There a many designers playing with time, in different ways. Martin Margiela for example, he has succeeded in fashion based on duration, rather then on change. He uses old materials to make something completely new. Every item is unique; he plays with traces of time and wants his clothes to age like painting.
Another example is Sandra Backlund, a Swedish designer. She says; I think it is important that we take responsibility and preserve ancient handicraft techniques which will die out if we do not carry them forward to a new level. Consciously I don´t think much about trends, it is more the feeling of timelessness that fascinates me. For me, fashion will always be the perfect combination of tradition and renewal.

I want to give a reaction on the speed of fashion, giving expression to these former values (attention, handicrafts, durability and time) in a modern way.
Tradition and innovation.

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